3 award winning pears 'Doyenne‚ Du Comice' / 'Conference' / 'Concorde' on one family tree!

family pear Doyenne‚ Du Comice / Conference / Concorde

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quince a 12lt (bush) £84.99
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Buy 3 award winning pears 'Doyenne‚ Du Comice' / 'Conference' / 'Concorde' on one family tree! family pear Doyenne‚ Du Comice / Conference / Concorde: Three tasty varieties on one plant

  • Position: full sun
  • Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
  • Rate of growth: average
  • Flowering period: April
  • Hardiness: fully hardy
  • Pollination Group: B & C - flowering mid and late season
  • Root Stock: Qunice 'A'

    Three different types of pears have been grafted onto this 'family' tree, which will bear a sucession of fruit from late summer to mid autumn. The chosen varieties will all cross pollinate freely, so there is no need to plant another tree nearby, making it particularly useful for smaller gardens. This tree has been grafted with the following varieties -

    'Doyenné Du Comicé ' AGM - an outstanding pear, which is renowned for its flavour, texture and taste. Ready to harvest in mid October.

    'Conference' AGM - the pure white flowers of this dessert pear are followed by delicious, long, yellowish green fruits in late September. A popular choice in the UK as it copes well with adverse conditions better than most.

    ' Concorde' AGM - a reliable cropping variety producing tasty, juicy, yellow skinned fruits late in the season. The white flowers in spring are also pretty.

  • Garden care: Pears naturally shed a small quantity of the developing fruits in mid summer. After this has occurred thin out the remaining pears, leaving one pear per cluster. Apply a high-nitrogen feed in spring.
    In August summer prune. Shorten any side shoots (or laterals) which are longer than 20cm back to three leaves. This will allow the sun to ripen the fruit and encourage more fruit buds. Make sure that the growth you’re cutting away feels firm to the touch.

  • Pollination Information: As these trees are made up of several different varieties that can cross pollinate freely, you will not need another pollinating partner.

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Eventual height & spread

Family Pear Tree


When the first tree arrived 2 years ago it looked strong and healthy, but one branch (= one variety, Doyenne du Comice) was damaged and crocus promptly took it back and sent a new one. That one was not as strong and vigorous, I imagine because most of them had been allocated for that year and only the smaller ones were left. We planted it and I looked forward to fruit in the coming years. However, my neighbour replaced his fence and the wind toppled the fence over as he was slotting the panel into place. It fell on my tree and broke off the grafted branch of Doyenne du Comice, so once again I was missing that variety. It was the variety I particularly wanted. I managed to buy a tree from another nursery which we planted near the Crocus tree. After this ghastly winter, the tree is budding and looks very healthy. I am sure I will enjoy the two varieties there still are on it. The Crocus tree is so much sturdier than the one I bought from another nursery! After a frustrating two seasons it looks as if the tree is establishing itself nicely! The original tree looked fantastic and I am very hppy with the Crocus quality.





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this 3 in 1 pear tree looks great but will it be successful grown espaliered (?) against a west facing wall? thanks


Hello, This family pear tree has not been trained as an espalier of fan, however there is no reason why you cannot tie in the branches to a network of wires (or other support) and train it against a wall.


Various fruit trees Dear Crocus, I bought lots of plants, including a Pyrus salicifolia 'Pendula' from you last year, and ALL are doing well. We only have a smallish SUNNY strip for what we are, rather tongue in cheek, going to call our Orchard! However, this is 50 yards from the weeping pear. My question is ,- if I were to plant a Conference (or indeed any fruit bearing pear) in this sunny strip, would it be sufficiently close to the weeping pear to fertilise it? Or do you have a pear which is self fertilising perhaps? Also, I am after one damson tree, so it needs to be self fertile. Can you recommend one please? I am longing to have an apricot tree, I keep reading about one called Flavorcot which fruits in August. But is this self fertile and if not, might you be able to suggest one which is? I look forward to hearing from you.

Carolyn Melville Smith

Hello There, The weeping pear is only an ornamental tree, so is not going to cross pollinate with a fruiting pear. Therefore if you only want 1 pear, then perhaps you should consider a 'family' tree which has several different types grafted onto one plant. Just click on the following link to go straight to them. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_fruit/bush/orchard-fruit/pear/kitchengarden/fruit/fruit-trees/pear-doyenn%C3%A9-du-comic%C3%A9--conference-williams-bon-chr%C3%A9tien/classid.2000012813/ http:/www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_fruit/bush/orchard-fruit/pear/kitchengarden/fruit/fruit-trees/pear-bet-conference-concorde/claaid.2000018021 As for the damson, we have a couple that are self fertile, although (as with all self-fertile damsons) you will always get a better crop if you have a pollinating partner. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_fruit/bush/orchard-fruit/plum/kitchengarden/fruit/fruit-trees/damson-shropshire-damson/classid.2000012815/ http:/www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_fruit/bush/orchard-fruit/plum/kitchengarden/fruit/fruit-trees/damson-merryweather/classid.2000015643/ Finally, we do not sell apricot trees, but nearly all of them are self fertile. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

Crocus Helpdesk

Pear 'Beth' rootstock? Can you please tell me what rootstock your Pear 'Beth' is on? Kind Regards Jane

Segar, Jane

Hi Jane, They are grafted onto Quince A rootstock. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

Crocus Helpdesk

Double 'u' cordon 'Conference' Pear Hi there, I just wondered if you were able to provide me with a bit more information on the 'Conference' Pear. I cannot find any further information about the BA29 rootstock and I wondered if you could let me know the estimated final height and width. Ideally we are looking for a trained Pear which spreads widthwise rather than heightwise, say 4m by 2/2.5m. Thank you. Kira

Kira Larno-Bayne


Can I move a Pear tree? I'm about to move house, but planted a Pear tree about 5 years ago and would like to take it with me. It's about 7ft x 3ft and has half a dozen pears on it at the moment. It's in a bed and I want to transfer it to a pot to put on my new terrace...but only if it will survive! Is this a really bad idea? Should I just buy another one for my new home, or can I dig it up and pot it, if I take a good sized area of soil etc?

Kate Warwick

Most plants are pretty forgiving as long as you move them on to their new position within the first two years of growth. Having said that, if it is done with great care and preparation, it is often possible to move plants that have been in the ground for many years! The general rule of thumb is that deciduous plants and herbaceous plants should be moved when they are dormant as the water demand is at its lowest at this time and the roots have time to recover and get established before the plant starts to produce leaf. Evergreen shrubs should ideally be moved in the autumn or early spring. This is again because the water demand the foliage places on the roots is at its lowest so the newly moved plant can put new roots on before the onset of warmer weather. If essential these plants could be moved at anytime of year but you would need to be very liberal with the watering until it was established and the chances of success without extreme care are reduced. When moving the plant always prepare the planting hole first then take as much of the rootball and surrounding soil of the plant as possible. Water very well after planting and keep a keen eye that it doesn't dry out especially during the first year after moving.


How do I prevent Pear midge? My pear tree suffered from what I think I have correctly identified as 'pear midge' last summer and I lost the whole crop. I collected and destroyed the affected fruit, and in March this year pruned the tree as it was needed. What do I need to do to prevent this happening again this year? I would prefer an organic or wildlife friendly approach as a lot of birds frequent my friut trees, and the pears are also usually enjoyed by family and friends.

Ann Williams

There are a few ways you can tackle pear midge that doesn't involve spraying lots of chemicals. The best way is to remove infested fruit. This helps to reduce pest levels, and hopefully to guarantee a crop in future seasons. Pick off any affected fruitlets as soon as they are noticed. You can also place a barrier on the soil under the tree canopy to catch falling larvae and fruits. This could be a plastic sheet, or thick cardboard to prevent larvae reaching the soil. Sweep up all fallen debris daily and put it in the dustbin. Keep the ground under the trees covered with a mulch which should be removed each autumn and renewed in the spring. Larval cocoons will be removed with the mulch at the end of each season. In winter, lightly fork or hoe the soil under the trees to expose cocoons to predators, but take care not to damage any shallow tree roots. Pear midge lay their eggs in mid-spring so very early or very late flowering varieties of pear may escape damage. Early flowering varieties are also prone to frost damage so choose a late-flowering variety such as ???Concorde??? or ???Onward???.


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