Planting perennials
The secret to success when planting a perennial is to make sure that the soil is well prepared and the roots are firmed in properly. After planting, it also helps to cover the surface of the soil with a mulch to cut down on competition from weeds, as well as help retain moisture around the roots of the plant. Avoid getting mulch on the plant though as it can scorch the foliage and encourage rotting. Also, watch out for slugs and snails which find the moist warmth offered by the mulch irresistible.
When should I plant?
Container-grown hardy perennials can be planted at any time of the year, except when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. Autumn planting is best on light soils, but for all others wait until spring. If planting in summer, make sure the plants are kept well watered during the warm weather.
Five steps to success
- . You will need to dig a hole at least twice as wide and slightly deeper than the perennial's container. Mix the soil you've removed with well-rotted organic matter and leave to one side.
- . Nearly all perennials need to be planted at the same depth as they were growing in the pot. Check the hole is the right depth by laying a bamboo cane across it. If the plant is standing too high you'll need to remove some of the soil in the bottom of the hole, or if it's too low then top it up a bit.
- Gently tip the plant out with one hand on top of the compost to support it, taking care not to damage any emerging shoots. Then ease the perennial out of its pot.
- Position the perennial in the centre of the hole then fill in the gaps around the sides of the plant with soil mixture, firming it down gently - you don't want to squash it in, just get rid of any air pockets and make sure it's secure.
- Water thoroughly and then cover the surface of the soil with a generous layer of mulch - well-rotted garden compost or manure is ideal. Keep the mulch at least 5cm away from the base of the plant.
Planting next to trees and shrubs
Climbers can also be trained to climb through trees and shrubs and over hedges, much in the same way as they do in the wild. If planting a climber among established plants a slightly different planting technique should be used.
- Choose a position that lies at the edge of the supporting plants' canopy. This is where rainwater will drip off and keep the new climbers roots moist - known as the 'drip zone'. Prepare the ground in the normal way, but restrict yourself to the immediate area around the planting position so that you disturb as few roots of the support plant as possible.
- Dig a hole at least three-times as wide and twice deep as the climber's container and prune off any roots exposed by the excavation.
- The climber needs to be planted as described above. Hammer in a stake next to the climber and tie a rope from the stake into the canopy of the supporting plant. Then tie the climber to this rope so that it is guided into the supporting plant but is not uprooted every time the wind blows.
Cut back after planting It is well worth cutting back newly planted climbers by two thirds. This will encourage lots more side shoots to tie in. The growth hormones in climbers make them shoot straight upwards, creating a tall leggy specimen that's bare at the base. By cutting back that top growth you encourage buds lower down to shoot and grow out sideways, producing a bushier plant. It might seem brutal to cut back something newly planted, but the end result will be a much healthier, fuller plant.
