January 2015 - Evergreens

January musing    
Winter cuts through the garden as effectively as a sharp knife in the hands of an apprentice butcher, removing any summer froth and exposing the bare bones beneath. It’s as though everything has taken a giant step backwards into the winter gloom, because most plants have either shed their leaves, or gone underground to escape the rigours of the season. Only the evergreens remain, true and proud, and they seize the limelight and take centre stage, positively glowing in winter light. And just like the mythical Green Man, these splashes of rich green keep the gardeners spirit going until spring arrives once again.
 

 

This season of minimalism is the perfect opportunity to look at the garden framework and add some touches of magic to liven up those strategically placed areas - close to steps, by doorways or along a path. Here topiary will work a treat. Clip according to your setting, either creating formal shapes, such as the tiered wedding cake, or opt for softer organic shapes by cloud cutting into mounds and humps. Whichever you choose, winter will highlight every contour and bring out the best.

The king of the evergreens

The holly reigns supreme in winter, but there are decisions to be made. If you want berries you can’t close clip and topiarise because you’ll cut away the flowers. You have to allow your holly to flourish on its own, with just a yearly spring trim, in order to get those red winter jewels. You must also make sure that you plant a female variety because hollies are dioecious (meaning two houses), and male and female flowers appear on separate bushes - and it’s only the female bushes that produce berries. In built up areas there’s usually plenty of male pollen carried around by the bees to pollinate the females, but in remoter areas you will need to plant a male holly as well. One male though, will serve a whole harem of female hollies.

A holly by any other name?

You can’t go by name, for some so-called Kings are indeed females and some so-called Queens are males masquerading as ladies by name only. There is an exception though. One green-leaved holly berries on its own because it's self-fertile - Ilex aquifolium‘J.C. van Tol’. However the berries cluster down the stems rather than in traditional clusters above the foliage. Most holly berries disappear once cold weather arrives, so if you want them for festivities pick them in early December and store them somewhere cool. Leave plenty for the birds though!

Hardy garden hollies come in three main types. The English holly (Ilex aquifolium) is sharp and prickly and therefore needs careful siting. It's masochism to plant this in a border that you have to weed by hand, or to put it close to walkways. Aquila is Latin for eagle - so think eagle talons as a reminder of how sharp those leaves really are. However English hollies make superb specimen plants in a lawn, or placed in strategic positions. Many of them from majestic shapes.


Most popular English hollies have some variegation which lights up the foliage. Ilex aquifolium 'Argentea Marginata' is an old 18th century variety known as the broad-leaved silver holly. The shiny green leaves, crisply margined in custard-cream yellow, set the clusters of red berries off. This clips really well, or it can be left to form a small tree and the new flush of spring growth will add a pink glow.
Highclere holly (Ilex x altaclerensis) is a natural hybrid between English holly and a tender large-leaved holly (I. perado) from The Azores. The two met when it became common to grow this large-leaved tender holly in orangeries in the 18th and 19th centuries. Bees carried pollen from these hothouse beauties to the wild hollies in the woods. The hybrid was first recorded and named at Highclere House in Berkshire by Loudon in 1838. Altaclerensis means the house of clere. The home of Downton was the first place this larger leaved holly was found, but it was soon discovered in many other places too.

One of the most highly regarded is Ilex x altaclerensis ‘Golden King’. This is a female berrier, despite its manly name, with rounded dark green leaves shaded in grey and then edged randomly in bright creamy yellow. Like all Highclere hollies, it’s faster growing than English holly and can be topiarised into standard mop heads, or it can be used to form a hedge. It’s also good left to its own devices and, however you use it, it creates its own bolt of winter sunshine.

New York or Blue hollies (Ilex x merserveae) are also hybrids between English holly, this time with I. rugosa, a dwarf holly from the Far East. This deliberate cross was made by an American gardener called Katherine Meserve in the 1950s. Her Long Island home was beset by cold winters and she set about breeding a holly that could withstand North Eastern America’s severe weather and she succeeded. These hollies have a blue tint to their foliage and purple stems so in winter light they can look almost black, but they are extremely hardy. The female ‘Blue Angel’ berries up, but is slow-growing, which makes it ideal for a small garden - but not for a hedge!


There’s a new variegated male form, Ilex × meserveae 'Casanova', which has rounded grey-green leaves widely margined in silver-white which is in turn flecked with bright-pink. This makes an excellent container plant, or a small specimen close to a doorway. It will also pollinate any female hollies nearby, regardless of type. In fact it thoroughly lives up to its promiscuous name of ‘Casanova’.

More doorstep evergreens

In winter we often catch glimpses of the garden close to porches and doorways as we rush in and out. One evergreen that’s perfect close to the house is the highly scented sarcococca or Christmas box. These are members of the box family, but they come from Western China mainly and arrived here in 1908 after their black berries were collected. The most elegant of all, with ivory-white flowers and shiny rich green leaves, is Sarcococca confusa. It’s so called because when it was recorded it couldn’t be found in the same place and the botanist named it tongue in cheek. The lily-like fragrance wafts through the air on still winter days, so try to keep this in a sheltered position. It also does well in a container and is the best thing for hedonists to grow by their doorway.

It’s debatable which sarcococca is the most fragrant, because they all pack a powerful punch. S. hookeriana, a pink-flowered form with grey-green foliage, comes in several forms. Sarcococca hookeriana var. digyna is the most heavily scented in my opinion, but the pink flowers are not as clean cut. Sarcococca hookeriana var. digyna 'Purple Stem' produces willow-like stems in purple and it suckers although not aggressively so. 'Ghorepani', a new one from Nepal, has cream-white flowers and there’s also a hybrid called ‘Winter Gem’ which has larger leaves and pink and white flowers. These are winter essentials and the easiest of the fragrant winter-flowering plants to accommodate in your garden.

A South-facing wall

Some evergreens need a large expanse on a warm wall and these include Magnolia grandiflora and Clematis armandii. Both have leathery green foliage and both stand out well in winter. Magnolia grandiflora is well named for its enormous lemon-scented white flowers are among the grandest of all. The common name, bull bay or Southern magnolia, reflects an American provenance of a tree sometimes found in maritime areas. The thick brown indumentum (a velvety layer on the undersides of the leaf), is the colour of snuff and this also stands out well in winter light. It wins the title for most tactile evergreen of all.

There are compact varieties too, such as ‘Little Gem’, but these are slower growing and tend to be more columnar. ‘Little Gem’ bears many cup-shaped flowers between April and August, but the buds are sumptuous long before it flowers and those leaves look good all year round.


Clematis armandii comes in many forms, but ‘Apple Blossom’ produces blush-pink starry flowers in spring and these are highly fragrant. ‘Snowdrift’ is a spidery pure-white with narrower high-gloss leaves. All will develop some brown foliage, because this is the plant’s natural way of shedding leaves throughout the year. These can be snipped off with scissors and, if your Clematis armandii rambles outside its allocated space, you can prune it in late-spring or early summer - once it has become established.

Your south-facing wall is also suitable for winter-flowering clematis particularly forms of C. cirrhosa. The form from Majorca, Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica, has ferny dark green leaves and lightly spotted, pendent greenish white bells early in the year. These will be mobbed by any early-emerging bees, so it’s well worth planting. ‘Freckles’ will often flower before Christmas, with more heavily spotted white flowers. All produce leggy plants that can be trained round windows or doors and then you can gaze up into the bells. Do not prune these and be aware that they can shed all their leaves in dry summers, feigning death as effectively as a Pre-Raphaelite poet - but they revive once rain returns.

You could also grow a myrtle, so symbolic of love and immortality that every bridal bouquet has to have a sprig or two. Myrtus communis subsp. tarentina, a compact Mediterranean shrub with pale pink petals that frame fibre-optic arrangements of fine stamens - each tipped in yellow. This can often flower late in the year in the shelter of a wall, but it isn’t scented. If you want scent plant the straight species Myrtus communis.

More evergreens for leaf alone


The Victorians loved evergreens and they planted Aucuba japonica widely. Familiarity shouldn’t breed contempt though, for the all-green leaves of ‘Rozannie’ are a high gloss rich green and red berries also follow. These long-lived shrubs grow far faster than holly and create the same effect and they tolerate deep shade. There are splashed aucubas too, such as ‘Crotonifolia’ that can light up dank corners.

Or you could use another Victorian favourite, Viburnum tinus, an evergreen viburnum with pretty sprays of pink buds that open to white. ‘Eve Price’ forms a good roundel or there is a newer red-budded form called ‘Lisarose’.

Red and green set each other off, adding extra winter warmth. In late winter the new foliage of Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ emerges a brilliant scarlet, so it really stands out strongly. This is a shrub that tolerates shade too. The new Dutch-bred ‘Magical Vulcano’ has even redder foliage and the leaves have fringed edges, which gives it an interesting twist. A subtler blend of green and red can be seen on Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica), with linear green leaves held on red stems. This can be used as hedging, but it also can be clipped to form cubes, cones and roundels and it’s very underrated. It looks divine in winter.

Last but not least, Choisya is another shrub that can be clipped into low mounds for winter interest, or left to flower. The finely divided foliage of ‘Aztec Pearl‘ sets off almond-scented, blush-white flowers that appear in May (and often in late summer too) on an elegantly restrained shrub.

Five things to do

Don’t forget about evergreen ground-hugging plants


They add warmth, protection and shelter to small mammals and insects. Good blasts of green can be had from wintergreen ferns including the delicate maidenhair ferns such as Adiantum × mairisii. This has wiry dark stems and tiny leaflets that float above the ground or soften hard landscape near steps or in paving. Or add the intricate mossy fronds of Polystichum setiferum Plumosomultilobum Group to your garden for its 3D leaves - or a leathery leaved Polypodium.

Time to think potatoes

The best varieties run out early on, so get the order placed. Chit maincrop potato varieties before planting (egg cartons are ideal). If space is tight, stick to earlies, ‘Charlotte’ (a waxy salad potato) and ‘Casablanca’ (a creamy fleshed all rounder) both do well. If you like variety, try the baby new potato collection of six varieties. Lift 'Pink Fir Apple' late though as it takes some time to produce new tubers.

Start cutting back prairie style borders


Autumn-flowering perennials and grasses can be divided in a month or two, when the worst of the winter is over. Take off the outer pieces and replant straight back into the soil. If the ground’s wet - stand on a plank.

Check out the sundries


Make sure you have labels, pens, string and canes now - whilst the gardening year is at a lull. In a few weeks it will be all hands on deck and you’ll be too pressed to get them!

Order bare-root plants


It’s an excellent time to plant bare root trees, fruit and roses now that the days are getting longer once again. Only plant in good weather though: if the weather’s cold when they arrive, keep your plants in a frost-free, cool place - making sure that the roots are kept moist.


Essential Kit for January




Garden groom midi - safety hedge trimmer
£79.99 £69.99



Gold Leaf winter touch gloves
£22.99



Victorian bronze lantern cloche
£69.99



Shoe grippers
£12.99



Wall storage & hanging unit
£39.99



Triple tool hook with shelf
£22.99



Centre draught chimney incinerator
£49.99 £34.99



Harcostar child safe water butt 114 Litre
£34.99 £29.99

 

 

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